Coach me!

[Marshy]

That is one nice-handling motorcycle!! Very very smooth, and holds a very tight line with no effort, particularly through turn 1 and a few other turns. A couple of pointers:

1. You need a quickshifter. Really, you do. It will make a lot of difference to your ease of riding, and it'll cut your lap time. The time spent rolling off and on again, particularly down the straight (and the back straight) makes a big difference. The ride is much smoother too - no jerking forward-and-back on gear changes.

2. The forks are just a little too soft under brakes at T2 and T9. You're bottoming out, and that's why the tail wags. If you haven't changed it from Wade, that'll explain it. I'd add a couple of turns of preload, and a couple of clicks of comp to the front. You might need slightly heavier springs. I have a couple of questions I'll take offline (eg how much do you weigh).

3. Inconsistent apexing (eg wide on T2 on lap 6, tight on lap 7). When you get it right (eg T1, T5, T6, T8) it's tops, but you're too wide in T2 and T4.

4. Square off T12 just a teeny bit more, to maximise drive onto the straight.

5. Get a quickshifter. I know a guy....

[Krackeye]

That is one nice-handling motorcycle!! Very very smooth, and holds a very tight line with no effort, particularly through turn 1 and a few other turns. A couple of pointers:

1. You need a quickshifter. Really, you do. It will make a lot of difference to your ease of riding, and it'll cut your lap time. The time spent rolling off and on again, particularly down the straight (and the back straight) makes a big difference. The ride is much smoother too - no jerking forward-and-back on gear changes.

2. The forks are just a little too soft under brakes at T2 and T9. You're bottoming out, and that's why the tail wags. If you haven't changed it from Wade, that'll explain it. I'd add a couple of turns of preload, and a couple of clicks of comp to the front. You might need slightly heavier springs. I have a couple of questions I'll take offline (eg how much do you weigh).

3. Inconsistent apexing (eg wide on T2 on lap 6, tight on lap 7). When you get it right (eg T1, T5, T6, T8) it's tops, but you're too wide in T2 and T4.

4. Square off T12 just a teeny bit more, to maximise drive onto the straight.

5. Get a quickshifter. I know a guy....

I like all of this. ^^^
I spoke with Glenn Allerton. I was asking about how much the forks were compressing as the rubber marker was about two fingers width from the bottom. I had been told it should be about 1 finger from people obviously not in the know with the Blades. GA said that the Showa tubes physically stop about 12mm from the bottom so 2 fingers is in the ball park anyway. I had taken some comp off but after the chat with Glenn went back to where it was. Last session of the day less tail wag.

Frank Pons has set the bike up Nick and you're right. It's on rails. The way the rear Bridgey wears is text book.
I need to get comfortable using the rear to control the front lofting as well.
I do love this bike. it's a joy!

Thanks Nick. That's all solid advice.
And Nick, can you talk with this guy you know who knows a guy and pm me deets for the QS.
BTW I'm 80kg

[Marshy]

And Nick, can you talk with this guy you know who knows a guy and pm me deets for the QS.

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