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Thread: Wakefiekd park RD 8th and 21st July

  1. #1

    Wakefiekd park RD Fri 8th and Sun 24th July

    Who's in for a bit of practice before St George?
    Myself and Chris will be there.

    Bring a jumper or 12❄️❄️


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    Last edited by Ruckos87; 04-07-2016 at 08:59 AM.

  2. #2
    -Edit- just went to book and the 21st has been changed to Sunday the 24th, no good for me but properly suit others a bit more.

  3. #3
    Yep hoping to make the 24th. Still waiting on parts :(

  4. #4
    Theres a SMSP Ride day on the 24th as well. Could be nice and quiet down WP. Might see what I can do to make it


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  5. #5
    Hmm, might aim for the 24th. Maybe.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by zoidberg View Post
    Hmm, might aim for the 24th. Maybe.
    Can't make the Sunday looks like I'll get some wet practice in this Friday and hopefully dry Friday the 5th.


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  7. #7
    Question with tyres in the cold down WP
    I'm running a Vo2s Med front and rear atm. Still with plenty of meat left. Usually 23r 34f off the warmers, should I drop 2psi on the front and give it a go for a few sessions? Or just chuck my soft front on from this start and run 34? or drop it swell
    I'll be using soft front at st George, and could just keep the med till I'm back at EC?

    Haven't really ridden in the "real" cold before?


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  8. #8
    Run the soft. It's important to have the right tyre on for the cold, down at Wakey. My ankle can attest to that. Come over and I'll swap them for you.
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  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Marshy View Post
    Run the soft. It's important to have the right tyre on for the cold, down at Wakey. My ankle can attest to that. Come over and I'll swap them for you.
    Cheers I've got soft spun up on the spare front so I'll chuck that in and pop over next week some time.
    32/33 in the front initially or stick with 34

    It'll probably be raining so we'll be on wets anyway

  10. #10
    I'd just run the soft at normal pressures. Just check the heat when you come back in if its a bit cool drop a pound out.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Binksy View Post
    I'd just run the soft at normal pressures. Just check the heat when you come back in if its a bit cool drop a pound out.



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  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Binksy View Post
    I'd just run the soft at normal pressures. Just check the heat when you come back in if its a bit cool drop a pound out.
    check the heat? What temp would you be looking for? My mate got a couple of infrared temp guns recently. I love mine, as it shows if my beer is cool enough to drink. Pretty important.

    But tyres I guess could be important too!

    But seriously, other than setting and checking pressure, if checking heat is a good idea, what are they supposed to be?

    Cheers,

    Nath

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by zoidberg View Post
    check the heat? What temp would you be looking for? My mate got a couple of infrared temp guns recently. I love mine, as it shows if my beer is cool enough to drink. Pretty important.

    But tyres I guess could be important too!

    But seriously, other than setting and checking pressure, if checking heat is a good idea, what are they supposed to be?

    Cheers,

    Nath
    I only have a hand to check with... But keen to know as well, might need to ad one to the wish list, (and some pit crew to take reading straight off the track)

    Suspension to will need to be softened a bit to, did Jason have a little formula written down at last ARDC ?vDid you note it down ? Can I get it?


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  14. #14
    Jason had heaps of stuff written down, but he wouldn't show me. Besides, we're racing together, so any info I give you will more than likely be the opposite of what you need.

    Or will it?

    See?

    Or don't you?

    Wait, where were we?

  15. #15
    Hmmmmm
    I don't think I'll be giving anyone a run for there money just yet, hoping not to get lapped, so cough up the good info. Now!!!!!


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  16. #16
    Oh I was talking about wet suspension settings then not just cold. Looking out the window now and I don't think it's drying up any time soon


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  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by zoidberg View Post
    check the heat? What temp would you be looking for?
    Quote Originally Posted by Plumb View Post
    I only have a hand to check with...
    A hand is fine. I have a temp gun, but for tyres I still just use my hand. Your hand is perfectly good for telling is a tyre is 'ouch, hot!', or 'warmish', or 'fark, there's hardly any heat left in them at all'. At Wakefield, check both sides of the front, because it's very hard to hold heat in the left side of the tyre. The rear spreads the heat better, so isn't so much of an issue. But I can't stress enough how important it is to check the temp of the left side of the front. If you aren't generating heat, do three things:

    1. No mucking around once the warmers come off! Straight out of the pits and hard on it from turn 2. Especially Turn three and the fishhook, to generate left-side heat.

    2. Let more pressure out of the front. 30-31 psi, instead of 34. Hot.

    3. Be aware that the left side of the tyre isn't all that hot, and compensate with less lean angle in T3 and the fishhook.

    And an extra for racing... brake hard on-and-off on the front (like a kinda reverse bunny-hop) to maximise flex in the front sidewalls as much as you can, eg leading up to the grid, on the outlap etc. It's flexing the sidewalls that generates tyre heat on track, not weaving side-to-side. This has been scientifically proven, and is the reason nobody weaves on sighting laps in motoGP any more. And we aren't allowed to weave anyway, so don't do it, and it does nothing, so why bother? Braking on the front hard-soft-hard-soft-hard-soft to flex the sidewall actually generates a lot of heat, so do it as much as you can.

    After extensive testing in the cold at Wakefield, I can tell you that once the heat goes from the left side of the front tyre, there's nothing you can do to get it back (unless it's a sighting or warmup lap and you can do the front brake thing). On a trackday, or in qualifying etc where you can't ride at 30kms an hour on-and-off the front brake, you simply cannot apply enough force to the left side to generate the heat back. You can hold the heat in, by going balls-out from the pits or by flexing the sidewall, but you can't get it back once it's gone.
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  18. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by zoidberg View Post
    check the heat? What temp would you be looking for? My mate got a couple of infrared temp guns recently. I love mine, as it shows if my beer is cool enough to drink. Pretty important.

    But tyres I guess could be important too!

    But seriously, other than setting and checking pressure, if checking heat is a good idea, what are they supposed to be?

    Cheers,

    Nath
    I more meant just with your hand. I like to touch my tyres before I leave the garage as a final check my warmers have been on. If your tyre is a lot cooler by the time you come back in than before you left something isn't right, Other warning I've personally found is if the front gets progressively more vague it seems to be linked to the tyre cooling.

  19. #19

    Wakefiekd park RD 8th and 21st July

    Quote Originally Posted by Marshy View Post
    A hand is fine. I have a temp gun, but for tyres I still just use my hand. Your hand is perfectly good for telling is a tyre is 'ouch, hot!', or 'warmish', or 'fark, there's hardly any heat left in them at all'. At Wakefield, check both sides of the front, because it's very hard to hold heat in the left side of the tyre. The rear spreads the heat better, so isn't so much of an issue. But I can't stress enough how important it is to check the temp of the left side of the front. If you aren't generating heat, do three things:

    1. No mucking around once the warmers come off! Straight out of the pits and hard on it from turn 2. Especially Turn three and the fishhook, to generate left-side heat.

    2. Let more pressure out of the front. 30-31 psi, instead of 34. Hot.

    3. Be aware that the left side of the tyre isn't all that hot, and compensate with less lean angle in T3 and the fishhook.

    And an extra for racing... brake hard on-and-off on the front (like a kinda reverse bunny-hop) to maximise flex in the front sidewalls as much as you can, eg leading up to the grid, on the outlap etc. It's flexing the sidewalls that generates tyre heat on track, not weaving side-to-side. This has been scientifically proven, and is the reason nobody weaves on sighting laps in motoGP any more. And we aren't allowed to weave anyway, so don't do it, and it does nothing, so why bother? Braking on the front hard-soft-hard-soft-hard-soft to flex the sidewall actually generates a lot of heat, so do it as much as you can.

    After extensive testing in the cold at Wakefield, I can tell you that once the heat goes from the left side of the front tyre, there's nothing you can do to get it back (unless it's a sighting or warmup lap and you can do the front brake thing). On a trackday, or in qualifying etc where you can't ride at 30kms an hour on-and-off the front brake, you simply cannot apply enough force to the left side to generate the heat back. You can hold the heat in, by going balls-out from the pits or by flexing the sidewall, but you can't get it back once it's gone.
    Cheers Nick good advice.

    So today was damp, session 1 & 2 on slicks was ..... Dodgie at best. I only managed 2-3 laps with fogging visor issues
    3rd session I chucked on the wets and a spare helmet, it was much better T5 6 and 10 were really slippery, T10 has a small stream across it all day even in he dry. Managed another 3 session "s on wets before pulling the pin at 1230

    On a brighter not for us (not WP) there was only 10 bikes so merged sessions saw us going out every 15 min

    Hi crash rate though, 50% as I counted very slippery but at least I've been out on wets now and stayed upright



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    Last edited by Ruckos87; 08-07-2016 at 05:16 PM.

  20. #20
    Well done Plumb in the wet mate, in the dry I run my fronts at 31 off the warmer. Not that that means anything but just out of interest.

  21. #21
    Awesome job mate! Staying upright in challenging conditions is a great achievement
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  22. #22
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    Well done for keeping it together mate! Hope you managed to gain something from the experience!
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  23. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Plumb View Post
    I only have a hand to check with... But keen to know as well, might need to ad one to the wish list, (and some pit crew to take reading straight off the track)

    Suspension to will need to be softened a bit to, did Jason have a little formula written down at last ARDC ?vDid you note it down ? Can I get it?


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    Hahah my secret wet formula..... seems to work well its a Glenn special that works well i found. So it goes like this ps if you crash its not my fault.
    Front
    -2 turns preload
    -4 clicks comp
    -2 clicks reb
    Rear
    -2 turns preload
    -4 clicks comp
    -2 clicks reb
    Bridgestone wets (old style)
    32psi front
    30psi rear cold no warmers
    Minds you i found this worked well at p.i and ec i am yet to ride Wakefield in the wet and am not sure how it will go as my Wakefield settings are a little on the softer side.

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  24. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by zoidberg View Post
    Jason had heaps of stuff written down, but he wouldn't show me. Besides, we're racing together, so any info I give you will more than likely be the opposite of what you need.

    Or will it?

    See?

    Or don't you?

    Wait, where were we?
    Dear diary today i crashed. Pretty much all it says in that little book lol.

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  25. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by jaswib View Post
    Hahah my secret wet formula..... seems to work well its a Glenn special that works well i found. So it goes like this ps if you crash its not my fault.
    Front
    -2 turns preload
    -4 clicks comp
    -2 clicks reb
    Rear
    -2 turns preload
    -4 clicks comp
    -2 clicks reb
    Bridgestone wets (old style)
    32psi front
    30psi rear cold no warmers
    Minds you i found this worked well at p.i and ec i am yet to ride Wakefield in the wet and am not sure how it will go as my Wakefield settings are a little on the softer side.

    Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
    Awesome Jas should give me a good starting point.


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