My ZX6R build - The Kangasaki

[Medic!]

Stop using brakes. Then the fluid won't get hot and expand. :P

[Negrogrande]

Ditch the hrc tube and replace it with tygon 2075 tubing , problem solved.. kurveygirl sells it

+1 my HRC tube sweated like a bitch I bought my tygon from an aussie place
https://www.ausfr.com.au/cart/shopexd.asp?id=126

was pretty cheap and shipped quickly

[KANGA]

Stop using brakes. Then the fluid won't get hot and expand. :P

Thats why I feel jipped, never touch the bloody rear! lol

Ditch the hrc tube and replace it with tygon 2075 tubing , problem solved.. kurveygirl sells it

+1 my HRC tube sweated like a bitch I bought my tygon from an aussie place
https://www.ausfr.com.au/cart/shopexd.asp?id=126

was pretty cheap and shipped quickly

Cheers bob will look at that stuff and thanks Negrogrande for the link, looks like a good option for it.

Ditch the hrc tube, ditch the super bike pros. Are you guys going to let me keep anything haha :P

Have a set of barely used super corsa sc1 front and rears which will be fitted up soon.

[No_Style]

Ditch the Kawasaki bits and replace them with Yamaha

[CLIFFY]

Ditch the Kawasaki bits and replace them with Yamaha

Yeah, do that and I'll take your ZX6R and set it up as my spare/wet bike!

[KANGA]

Ditch the Kawasaki bits and replace them with Yamaha

Yeah, do that and I'll take your ZX6R and set it up as my spare/wet bike!

Good friends, always looking out for me!!

[Marshy]

Ditch the Kawasaki bits and replace them with Yamaha

+1,000,000

And agreed that proper Tygon tubing is da bomb! Cheap, and doesn't sweat at all. It's not as 'cool' as the tinted HRC tube, but who wants form over function on a racebike (besides Baddie)!

[KANGA]

Well I dun messed up on Friday. Managed to crash during CSS Lvl 2 attempting to follow Cliffy which wasn't the smartest thing I have ever done, especially since I was on road tyres. Didn't even make 1 corner and threw it down on turn 5. lol

Wetty came through for me and managed to source me a set of clip on's despite being out of stock him self and dropped them off to me Saturday morning along with a new foot peg. Spent saturday putting it back together. Only annoying part was trying to find a bolt for the foot peg as the bolt supplied was just a tad big for my rear sets. Managed to get one that worked from Cliffy but its a tad short, came loose at one point mid session then bent later in the day so will have to replace that. Got a mate who is a welder repairing the kick stand just need to find a spring of some sort to work with it. May also need a new engine cover, going to take it off and have a look at how worn away it actually is.
Think its about time I sort out some spare parts to keep around to :S

Unfortunately my confidence suffered a fair dent and was seriously off the pace when I went out Sunday. Made progress from the start of the day though, hopefully can get it back in a few track days. Will help running around back in green group, had to run in white & yellow since I only booked the day before.

[Marshy]

I feel your Turn 5 pain - I visited the pavement there today! It won't look as bad when the fairings are removed; trust me on this one. Have a good look at the case covers, and if in doubt it's much cheaper to replace them now than when they wear through something more expensive.

It's a very good idea to carry the following items as a minimum: spare levers, spare clip-on bars (and if you have race/aftermarket clip-ons, that's very very easy, as spare bars are cheap, easy to carry and easy to replace), and spare footpegs - or better yet, spare rearsets. What I often do is fit aftermarket rearsets and then carry the OEM ones as emergency spares.

Oh, and I have ZX6R clip-ons in stock

[KANGA]

I feel your Turn 5 pain - I visited the pavement there today! It won't look as bad when the fairings are removed; trust me on this one. Have a good look at the case covers, and if in doubt it's much cheaper to replace them now than when they wear through something more expensive.

It's a very good idea to carry the following items as a minimum: spare levers, spare clip-on bars (and if you have race/aftermarket clip-ons, that's very very easy, as spare bars are cheap, easy to carry and easy to replace), and spare footpegs - or better yet, spare rearsets. What I often do is fit aftermarket rearsets and then carry the OEM ones as emergency spares.

Oh, and I have ZX6R clip-ons in stock

Don't suppose you found my kick stand spring did you? lol. We took the fairings off completely to get all the gravel out from around the engine, reckon I picked up a solid kg or two of the stuff in the belly pan alone haha. Probably won't worry about the paint as I'm still very much learning so its not unlikely that it could happen again.Seemed like turn 5 claimed at least 4 people in the last 3 days then that I know of.
I actually called and left a message for you friday afternoon before I called Wetty :(
I now have the oem rear sets and levers in my tool box, will organise some clip on bars soon. Need to get my leathers repaired properly and a new under armour shirt at some point to as that has a nice hole in it where it burned through.

[CLIFFY]

I think everyone learns the hard way what they should have in their box of spares.
You got back on the bike, that's the main thing.

[Phat3R]

I should apply for a contract to sweep SMSP once a month with a metal detector and sell all the missing parts back to original owners. There must be tons of metal and cameras and expensive bike parts out there. Save SMSP on mower blade damage.

I'm missing a gas cap out there ... somewhere ...

[Phat3R]

- 2010 "Kangasaki" ZX-6R
"My new years resolution is no crashes in 2013" - Crashed January 12th 2013.

Might want to update your sig too KANGA

[Marshy]

Oops, sorry I missed your call! My bad for not ringing back; humble apologies.

And don't worry too much about crashing. It's all part of the learning process. You know what they say: If you don't crash, you're not trying hard enough!

I always try to ensure that I understand why I crashed and learn from it. Tyres, some mechanical issue that can be fixed (both of my last recent crashes), incorrect line, chopping the throttle, whatever.

And I love your sig! Very cool

[KANGA]

No worries mate, all turned out ok in the end Really like the community down there, had a few people coming by and helping as I was rebuilding it.

I have definitely had a think about the crash and its largely down to the tyres. I think I would have been fine had I been on racing slicks instead of road tyres, I just went way above what they were ever intended for and quite possibly just rolled off the edge of it. Of course there is my stupidity of trying to chase someone a lot faster then me and with the wrong equipment. Fair to say my ambition outweighed my talent.

One thing it has really highlighted is my lack of braking markers. I was tending to go off of instinct and with my confidence shot my instinct was way off so I found it harder to try and get back to where I was before so that's something I'm going to work on. Probably made a little bit harder again since the last experience on track was 3 sessions of running around in CSS with no brakes.

I just realised I came off on the 24th so I have doubled the days since last years first crash, making progressssssss!!!!!!!!

[Marty]

Oh bad luck Mick :( I thought I saw your damaged bike on the weekend (just went out to watch with the mrs) but there's some imposter bikes getting around so I wasn't 100% sure.

Good job fixing it and getting out there again.

Also bad luck to Nick, I hope you didn't aggravate your healing ankle :(

[Marshy]

Nah, all good Marty, thanks. I saw you off in the distance, but didn't get a chance to catch up. This weekend?

[KANGA]

Oh bad luck Mick :( I thought I saw your damaged bike on the weekend (just went out to watch with the mrs) but there's some imposter bikes getting around so I wasn't 100% sure.

Good job fixing it and getting out there again.

Also bad luck to Nick, I hope you didn't aggravate your healing ankle :(

Cheers mate. Yeah I was out running around in white/yellow on Sunday. Saturday spent the first half of the day in the garage fixing the zx and for some reason turned in to mother hen worrying about my mates out there. Really does suck when your not in the mix your self.
Was glad I got out again so soon now. Best advice given to me. Everyone down at css was encouraging and supportive, was my first fast crash so was a bit shook up. Thanks again Cliffy for offering me some of your spares to.

[CLIFFY]

No prob. What goes around, comes around.

[KANGA]

Thinking about repainting the bike since I'll be waiting a little while on my new suit so won't be back out on track until April 19th earliest.
Anyone able to recommend any rattle can paint that won't break the bank. Old paint I used was shockingly bad.

[stevem]

I don't know,You could have a full ASBK grid there

I dont think so....
Mick James, Mick Jeffery, Mick Lockhart, Mick Gilligan, Mick Doolan, Mick C... nowhere near enough

[chubb]

Thinking about repainting the bike since I'll be waiting a little while on my new suit so won't be back out on track until April 19th earliest.
Anyone able to recommend any rattle can paint that won't break the bank. Old paint I used was shockingly bad.

Rustoleum or Wattyl

[Baddie]

Supercheap auto china specials for $3 a can for colour

[KANGA]

Supercheap auto china specials for $3 a can for colour

Any one actually tried those export paints? cause price is right lol

Planning on going black pretty much all over except for white on the screen and tail for eventual race numbers. Leave the front fender as is.

[Mr.Ed]

I did but I only used black and white... it turned out ok (might have pics here somewhere if you're interested) and it was my first time painting anything.

[KANGA]

That would be great thanks Ed

[CLIFFY]

Whatever they sell at peps auto done the trick a few times now

[KANGA]

Peps auto, Marshy's sponsor right?

[Mr.Ed]

Here you go, mate...

Painted only one side first to see how hard it would be. I sanded everything by hand and the paint was a BIATCH to remove... lots of coats, different colors even, and clear coat on some parts.

Before (black painted on top of yellow on top of silver, I think):



AFTER - Sanded it down completely and prepped it then just sprayed the black straight on, no primer or anything.





Slapped on a sticker and at speed at a certain distance it didn't look too bad IMHO



I also painted most of the white bits but can't remember if it was done before or after this picture... sorry!

[Marshy]

Peps auto, Marshy's sponsor right?

[KANGA]

Looks pretty good to me Ed! Think I'll give it a go, cheers mate!

[Mr.Ed]

No worries! My only advices are to NOT save on the sanding bit... and do several light coats instead of a few thick ones 'cause the cheap paint is more likely to run

[James_]

Ive found "fiddly bits" from bunnings suprisingly good. $3 per can. I did a whole trailer with the stuff for about $30. Paint is cheap and nasty, but good enough. Best thing is the spray nozzles are fair superior than more expensive paints. No clog and great spray pattern.

[KANGA]

So turns out I fucked up thread on the fairing mount on the side of the chassis.
Anyone know how I can remove and replace this or a fixing solution?
Have tried re-tapping it but it didn't work.

[No_Style]

Heli-Coil or Time-Sert are the best bets, unless there is sufficient internal room in the frame rails box section to use a Rivnut or Nutsert which would also do the job.

[Little Mick]

These are actually nutserts. I bought a kit from eBay for around $100 with around 400 inserts in it and the tool as I paid a shop to do it the first time and cost me $50.... This kit comes in a box similar to a fishing tackle box and the tool looks similar to a pop rivet gun


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[Little Mick]

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/171112247703?nav=SEARCH

Try this link

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[Marshy]

Thanks Mick! That looks like a 'must have' addition to the workshop.

[CBR42]

Those rivet nuts are addictive once you start using them in stuff and if you plan on using them often and you have a compressor its worth getting the air powered one.Only costs about 160 bucks.We had the hand operated version at work and fracked it within a week.

[No_Style]

Which air tool did you get CBR?
Been looking for one, but most of the ones I find are really exy!

[Phat3R]

I searched on those terms and watched sum vids ... that fairing mount hole is part of the frame, so woodn't a TIME-SERT be more appropriate, because the NUTSERT needs to get behind something, like a rivet, and even then can't be too thick?

TIME-SERT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anjDQJtWFc8

NUT-SERT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sz2yZNqGNqo

[CBR42]

I'll check for the exact site on monday but when we bought it there were two sites selling them for around the same price and the pictures on both looked exactly the same ,one in Vic and this one in NSW.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stealth-N...638c03b&_uhb=1

When looking originally,after we rooted the hand operated one we were quoted $1000 bucks for an air operated one form a local tool supplier .Take my chances with the cheapy thanks.

[CBR42]

I searched on those terms and watched sum vids ... that fairing mount hole is part of the frame, so woodn't a TIME-SERT be more appropriate, because the NUTSERT needs to get behind something, like a rivet, and even then can't be too thick?

TIME-SERT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anjDQJtWFc8


NUT-SERT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sz2yZNqGNqo

Depending on how thick the frame material is at that point.May only be about 3 or 4 millimetres thick which would be fine for the rivet nut .Tricky bit is probably getting the old one out without enlarging the original hole.The rivet nuts work best with a snug fit.

[No_Style]

I searched on those terms and watched sum vids ... that fairing mount hole is part of the frame, so woodn't a TIME-SERT be more appropriate, because the NUTSERT needs to get behind something, like a rivet, and even then can't be too thick?

TIME-SERT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anjDQJtWFc8

NUT-SERT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sz2yZNqGNqo

CBR is on the money.

The determining factors are how thick (read how 'deep') the host material is that the nutsert/rivnut/helicoil/timsert is going into, as well as how much room is available, particularly true where it's a blind installation (blind being something you can't get to the back of, like the inside of box section etc).
Thread replacements (Helicoil/Time-Sert) need to be supported for their full length by the host material (i.e. the box section wall needs to be as thick, as the thread replacement is long - for optimal strength anyway) to achieve their proper load rating as the last threads do a lot to lock the insert in place in the host material. Riveting nuts (rivnuts/nutserts) are self supporting on the other hand (i.e. the threaded bit can and will be hanging out in mid air - it doesn't need host material around it). Similarly, there's a relationship between the size of a nutsert's diameter and the wall thickness it can be installed in (i.e. if you want a small bolt diameter in a really thick wall material, a nutsert won't be long enough to be able to expand correctly).

So, thread replacements work well for replacing threads that are fully supported (that is, normally a thread that was tapped into the original material which is relatively thick/deep), where as nutserts work well for thin wall blind applications as long as there is enough space available. In this particular instance you need to know the wall thickness, and CBR is probably on the money, it's probably only a few mm's or so thick which would be pushing your luck with a thread replacement (http://www.timesert.com/html/faq.html#5).

Having said all that, its worth noting that a conventional thread holds most of the load on the first two (sometimes three depending on design) threads closest to the load side. So, in theory there isn't much point having the whole thread replacement supported to it's full depth from the bolts point of view; the problem is that if you don't fully support it, you'll just rip the new thread replacement straight back out of the host material if you tighten up the bolt too much....

[CBR42]

I'd be tempted to just drill out the old nut and just go up a thread size.Off the top of my head i think they are 5mm thread (or is it 6?) from 5 to 6 would only need about a 10mm hole for the new nut.From 6 to 8 probably needs about 13mm.

[Little Mick]

If this is on a zx6r like mine then oem is the nutserts I linked. Can't tap a thread as no meat....

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[Marshy]

Well I ended up buying one of those kits off egay.... I think it was a similar one to the linked one above, not that exact one (but they are same same anyway). And I had the opportunity to try it out yesterday, as I wanted to fit a Woodcraft shark fin to the Ape. The usual 11mm hole required for the Woodcraft-supplied collapsible nutsert thingies was going to be waaaay too big for the very narrow swingarm size.

So after Dan figured out how to use the damn thing (thanks mate!), I drilled some much smaller holes and inserted a couple of M5 rivnuts. Bloody unreal!! They look factory! Very impressed. Solid as a rock, and easy to install. I'm a convert!

[dan]

^^ like, ordered one this morning

[Little Mick]

Happy with mine also... For what it's worth it took some head scratching for the first one as well.

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[KANGA]

I've ordered a tool but not the nutserts yet, Mick what size do I need for that spot? Don't have any bolt measuring majigga things handy.
*Edit* never mind found out its an m6

Finally got round to painting the fairings on the weekend, don't have any fancy spray facilities so just made do with what I could in the olds back yard