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Thread: Spilly1199 racebike build

  1. #1

    Spilly1199 racebike build

    So this is a two-part process, as we want to be able to test the bike at a track day next Sunday at the Creek. Initially, it just needs to be put into 'track trim' for the test, and then properly converted into a Clubsport racebike, ready for the opening race in February!

    Picked it up during the week. It was a 'did not start' bike, but that only took 5 minutes to fix - it had no fuel in the tank! Sometimes they are much harder than that, with more serious problems....

    It sounds great!! Low kays, and you can always tell that immediately with the Yamahas. It really runs well.

    Hardly any real damage; just a bent subframe, and a broken front fairing stay. The dash works fine, even though the tacho cover is smashed. A new dash casing is on the way. Bike looks good!















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  2. #2
    What year is she Nick ... bike looks like it will come up really nicely.

  3. #3
    04/08. It's gonna be a good one, this. I checked the front end yesterday, and it's dead straight. Like, straighter-than-my-racebike-after-it-got-straightened straight! I've honestly never seen one so perfect.

    I worked on it most of the day yesterday. Will post pics shortly.
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  4. #4
    Moderator chubb's Avatar
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    Awesome stuff!!

    Can't wait for pics

  5. #5
    I want another Yammie. sigh

    and a clubsportable one at that the gixxer isn't eligible until next year, but at this point I have invested so much wrench time fixing the damn thing that I would actually miss it if I sold it.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Negrogrande View Post
    at this point I have invested so much wrench time fixing the damn thing that I would actually miss it if I sold it.
    Yeah, but what about 'cutting your losses' and 'investing good wrench time after bad' and 'unrecoverable sunk costs' and all that. When I finally bought an R6, after owning and racing two gixxers (K7 and then a K8, both 600s), I was stunned by how much better the Yammie is. I just kept saying they are an unfair advantage. They are just sooooooo much better than the gixxers. Within three laps I was quicker than I'd ever gone on the gixxers.
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  7. #7
    Nick, what do you do to check the front end is straight? I've heard different methods, just curious as to what you do.

  8. #8
    Amazing that bike got so much cosmetic damage but the tank never touched anything... Great find!

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Mazabuzz View Post
    Nick, what do you do to check the front end is straight? I've heard different methods, just curious as to what you do.
    Trade secrets

    Seriously though, I do a range of things, depending on the situation. From disassembling the forks completely and checking the inner and outer tubes for runout, through checking each triple clamp (off and on the bike) for straightness, and alignment with each other, to mounting the lower triple and forks together on a jig and checking for bends and misalignment, right up to occasionally sending the bike away to be Computracked.

    There are some tricks to getting a rough idea of straightness. The biggest giveaway is whether the axle slides easily into the opposite leg when putting the front wheel on. A properly straight front end will require the lightest of one-finger pressure to slot the axle home. If you've gotta hit it with a rubber mallet, it's not straight!! Most track bikes and many road bikes are slightly tweaked, which doesn't overly affect them and isn't too much of a concern. It's usually the lower triple, which is very soft and can get twisted from even very minor hits.

    How the forks go into the triples when installing them is another giveaway. If they don't line up with the top hole, then something is bent. But this doesn't apply when the front wheel is attached! The weight of the wheel forces the forks at an angle.

    Checking for bent forks is more difficult.

    The trick is working out which bit (or bits) is bent, and applying an appropriate fix. A bent front end can induce many handling issues on the track, and you should properly check it out after a crash (or if you've never checked it before and aren't sure of the history of the bike).

    That said, a tweaked front end can sometimes be almost completely fixed by simply unbolting everything (wheel, brakes, forks, bars) and letting everything spring back into position! The forks 'bind' in the triples, and if you knock the front, they can rotate in the triples and bind there, and they can't spring back. Undo everything, give it all a shake, then bolt it back up again. This can honestly work wonders.
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  10. #10
    misguided youth Little Mick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marshy View Post
    ...That said, a tweaked front end can sometimes be almost completely fixed by simply unbolting everything (wheel, brakes, forks, bars) and letting everything spring back into position! The forks 'bind' in the triples, and if you knock the front, they can rotate in the triples and bind there, and they can't spring back. Undo everything, give it all a shake, then bolt it back up again. This can honestly work wonders.
    This! and should be done after every lay over.... takes a couple of extra minutes (which you want a quick check over anyway) and lets things settle into home position if things arent bent, but strained...

    and just thinking about it, it wouldnt take much to make an adapter to mount to caliper bolts to hold a dial gauge (indicator) to check runout of USD fork tubes by rotating the tube with the dial gauge inplace.

    I also use an digital inclinometer similar to this http://compare.ebay.com.au/like/2605...d=260523253438

    you may need to work out which point to measure, but axle to axle angle is an obvious one (remove both wheels, place gauge on axle, zero unit, do other axle, confirm zero deviation... will also need to lock forks in straight forward position so consider this if using this as a method of quick check)

    also remember to look at all axis/ planes to check for deviation...
    Life's too Short- YOLO!

  11. #11
    Cheers for the info guys. Ive had a few lowside but never checked the alignment of the front end or if any bits are bent. Might need to have a quick check

  12. #12
    Going to be fun watching Steve go around on this on Sunday ... what group are you in Steve ... hope the weather forecast improves...

  13. #13
    More stuff. Replaced the brake reservoir with a smaller one, and repositioned it for better vision and clearance. Bled with race fluid. Brake pads turned out to be brand new! Rearsets fitted. Sticky rubber on (UK Ntecs front and rear). A replacement front fairing stay fitted - this one is only missing one arm, not both Eastern Creek gearing fitted. And of course, an Annitori quickshifter went on too.











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  14. #14
    Senior Member dan's Avatar
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    Awesome, look forward to seeing it!

  15. #15
    Any idea how much this one cost from the auction (if you don't mind divulging). This talk of how much faster the R6's are is making me feel as though I need one.

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Jashdown View Post
    Any idea how much this one cost from the auction (if you don't mind divulging). This talk of how much faster the R6's are is making me feel as though I need one.
    They are normally somewhere from $5k to $5.5k including fees, depending on condition and year. Building them up from scratch is definitely not the cheapest way to get into an R6. There's a lot of work involved, and you run a big risk each time that there's something seriously or fatally wrong with the bike (I had to throw away most of, and part out the rest of, a bike not that long ago that had unseen terminal frame and swingarm damage, and I've had two now that have had serious engine damage too). Assuming nothing is seriously wrong, there's normally $3k+ in bits that need to go on to get it race ready (fairings, engine covers, frame sliders, shark fin, quickshifter, clipons, levers, tyres, braided lines, 520 chain and sprockets, tank sliders, tank grip, lockwiring, suspension servicing and revalving, PLUS whatever damage there was to the bike). It's cheaper to buy a sorted ex-racebike second-hand.

    But yeah, get an R6!!! They rock!!
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  17. #17
    Senior Member dan's Avatar
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    Is that the stock R6 throttle?

  18. #18
    Yep. Clipons will go on soon. The R6 throttle is pretty short from the factory, but I have a mod that copies the Graves progressive throttle (but way cheaper than the $150 genuine Graves item), which takes out some of the initial-throttle snatchiness (fly-by-wire) and makes it shorter at 70% up.
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  19. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by dan View Post
    Is that the stock R6 throttle?
    They are short to begin with I have a R6 throttle tube in mine (went from stock 1/4 to R1 1/5 to R6 1/6) I don't want to have to get rid of the RH switchblock (and the maps etc)

  20. #20
    Moderator chubb's Avatar
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    I'm actually very happy with the stock R6 throttle tube. I find it short enough to begin with but some corners I still have to readjust or double grab
    Last edited by chubb; 16-01-2014 at 08:56 AM.

  21. #21
    Interestingly, the Graves one is longer than stock at the very start of the throttle action (0 to, say 20%), because the transition from closed to initially open is too abrupt. But then it shortens considerably above 60% throttle. Here's a pic. See how the groove is much deeper at the start?

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  22. #22
    ZX6 FTMFW

  23. #23
    Moderator chubb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marshy View Post
    Interestingly, the Graves one is longer than stock at the very start of the throttle action (0 to, say 20%), because the transition from closed to initially open is too abrupt. But then it shortens considerably above 60% throttle. Here's a pic. See how the groove is much deeper at the start?

    So when you start production Nick?

  24. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by chubb View Post
    So when you start production Nick?
    I've thought about it!! They are a bit of a PITA to do by hand... it's not difficult, just fiddly. I might do a how-to at some point
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  25. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Mazabuzz View Post
    ZX6 FTMFW
    Shhhhhhhh... let'em go and buy their R6s!

  26. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Ed View Post
    Shhhhhhhh... let'em go and buy their R6s!
    There's a reason you lot all paint your bikes green..... you're green with envy of everyone with an R6!!
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  27. #27
    Senior Member dan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Negrogrande View Post
    They are short to begin with I have a R6 throttle tube in mine (went from stock 1/4 to R1 1/5 to R6 1/6) I don't want to have to get rid of the RH switchblock (and the maps etc)
    I've got the R1 in mine. I more meant the after market quick turn-like appearance as opposed to conventional incorporating the switch block my old girl. Looks nifty.
    do a burnout

  28. #28
    Senior Member dan's Avatar
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    I'm looking at the motion pro set up for mine at some point down the track. Not really high-priority at the moment (quickshifter etc)
    do a burnout

  29. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by dan View Post
    I'm looking at the motion pro set up for mine at some point down the track. Not really high-priority at the moment (quickshifter etc)
    I put one on my K8, and don't particularly recommend them. They are simply too bulky!! And I never used anything other than the largest cam (which still wasn't massively short), so the different size cams is just a gimmick IMHO.
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  30. #30
    Oh yeah, I had to fit clipons to install the motion pro, even using a small-as-possible aftermarket run/stop switch. The OEM handlebar just wasn't long enough - in fact, wasn't even close.
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  31. #31

    Spilly1199 racebike build

    Robby Moto

    Last edited by senator8; 12-11-2013 at 09:49 AM.
    Pre Modern Formula 1 Champion 2013 (GSXR750T)

    www.wet4uracing.com.au Race bike & mechanical prep, fairings and parts - www.bikeshop.com.au (Protech Motorcycles)Tyres, parts and dyno tuning www.stayupright.com.au motorcycle rider training from learners through to track skills - http://worthingtonmotorcycles.com.au BMW, Honda, MV Augusta, Moto Guzzi and Aprilia

  32. #32
    Senior Member dan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marshy View Post
    Oh yeah, I had to fit clipons to install the motion pro, even using a small-as-possible aftermarket run/stop switch. The OEM handlebar just wasn't long enough - in fact, wasn't even close.
    I'm already running woodcraft clip ons with about an inch sticking through on the inside. I can imagine that most of the cams are pretty useless though.
    do a burnout

  33. #33
    Senior Member dan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by senator8 View Post
    Robby Moto

    Fuck, talk about options.
    do a burnout

  34. #34
    Moderator Baddie's Avatar
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    As the owner of this new build owns a Aston and a Duc are we going to see full blown bling????...aftermarket suspension, tricked ECU etc.


  35. #35
    I can't believe I only just found this thread! Gotta play catchup & learn all about my racebike now! But yea, it's turned out to a cracker of a bike!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  36. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Spilly1199 View Post
    I can't believe I only just found this thread! Gotta play catchup & learn all about my racebike now! But yea, it's turned out to a cracker of a bike!
    And here I was thinking you already understood just how much effort had gone into building it.....
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  37. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by Spilly1199 View Post
    I can't believe I only just found this thread! Gotta play catchup & learn all about my racebike now! But yea, it's turned out to a cracker of a bike!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    No mate, I honestly had no idea, I only normally check the general forum! 😣

  38. #38
    Senior Member dan's Avatar
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    Someone is selling 1199 wheels on fx classifieds if you were looking for a second set spilly
    do a burnout

  39. #39
    Cool, thanks Dan!

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