Seems to be the season for rebuilds so here is where I'll be putting up the progress of mine. Since the crash I've been flat out, both figuratively and literally, so I've been unable to get to the workshop to start fixing my baby up.
I have, however, been spending too my time and money on eBay and FX classifieds so I have been collecting parts. In my OxyContin daze I decided that USD forks would be pretty cool and upon discovering 2003-2004 forks bolt straight in I set about sorting some out. $71 later I had forks from eBay. Went out to pick them up and old mate also had a master cylinder and calipers so I handed over another $70 and got the lot. One of the fork caps was buggered though so I ended up at Metros and for $95 got the full cartridge and spring to swap straight in. They didn't come with a top clamp but found a full triple clamp set in the states and bought that for $120 delivered.
So here I am now in the workshop pulling the front end apart and hit a road block. What is the best way to hold the bike up while I pull the current triple clamps off and mock fit the new ones? Obviously my head stand will prevent the removal of the lowers so I'm guessing I have to suspend the front from something fairly solid to hold the weight of the bike. Any backyard solutions that could be recommended for use with a moonboot?
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Cool, another build thread!! Sounds tricky, which I always like.
Yep, car stands under the stator and clutch covers, or thereabouts (or depending on the weight distribution of the bike and rearset positions, you can occasionally use stands under the footpegs). Car stands are heaps easier than suspending the bike from the rafters, which is another way to do it for people with more movement than us....Originally Posted by dan
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I strap mine to a cross member in the garage roof via the frame. It's an old garage so nice strong hardwood.
No...I'm not loving that and I'm not loving that!But I'm loving this!
http://www.break.com/video/ugc/oran-...il-2009-702765
http://www.break.com/video/ugc/track...d-video-625380
Give me a buzz if you need a hand with any lifting and I'll walk on over. Mechanical stuff call anyone but me though lol.
Hello pretty girl, nice pins!
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I'm in love. Quick question. There is a little bit of pitting around the very bottom of the sliders what is the best way to clean these up without making a mess of them.
Also, fork oil. I have some 10w here. I'm not sure on recommendations for these will that perform well or do I want to be using 5w?
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Nice sexy gold bits
Cbr 600rr 07 track
Fit like a glove!Nice sexy gold bits
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Ooo la la! Sexxxxxy!!
Also, fork oil. I have some 10w here. I'm not sure on recommendations for these will that perform well or do I want to be using 5w?
Oil viscosity requirements depends on the valving, among other things. 5w would be more normal for modern carts such as in those fork legs. Heavier oil tends to be for the older forks with less damping and adjustability. But it's not gonna be awful with 10w.
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Okay matey. Time to start weaning yourself off the meds me thinks
Hello pretty girl, nice pins!
Sliders ... do you mean pitting on the forks ... can we get a closeup photo?
I use a block & tackle on the roof with a strap through the frame off the bike.
I've seen people use just ratchet straps that's pretty ghetto but works
Ohh ... a naked Gixxer ... hello ... I do love your bouncy bits.
Hello pretty girl, nice pins!
Just a bit of an update. There is a little damage to one of the outer tubes on the 1000 forks so in the interest of getting her ready for Jan 27 I decided to put the old forks back on.
I doubt the oil in these had ever been changed so I crossed my fingers and dove into the wild, wild world of suspension; and I'm pleased to say it wasn't very scary.
Here is the oil that came out. It had the viscosity of water.
Got a nice surprise when I discovered how much oil was still inside the valves.
All laid out in my make shift fork workshop
Speaking of makeshift - here is my fork clamp
Cleaned up, topped up and back on.
Got a new tank for something like $140 delivered.
After a bit of the old hammer / screwdriver combo I'd busted the old lock off and installed a China EBay limited edition race spec motogp a+++++ fuel tank cap.
Had some grippier pegs in the workshop so bolted them in.
Got some actual k3 600 fairings so next job is to see how they mount compared to the k3 1000 ones I had on it before. Those 1000 fairing will be going onto my SRAD 600 as she evolves from daily rider to spare race bike - getting all the hand-me-downs from the k3. So many of the parts are interchangeable which is nice ($$$).
Fairings, tank etc etc won't be painted for jan 27. I'd be happy just to get it (and me) out there to do some laps and cross my fingers there aren't any mechanical issues that don't present themselves till 12,000rpm in 6th...
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Nice write up!!!
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Close up of the sticker on the new tank haha
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You don't need better bouncy bits ... you are more than fast enuf as it was ... just pop the old airated oil mix back in please. :-)
PS I'll bet you have no problem staying infront of me even with all my new fancy pants bits and bobs!
PPS That workshop manual looks very familiar ... :-)
Soundz kinky ... I like ...
You can use my old super fast fork oil if you want ??????
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It'll go well with your power commander and quick shifter (cheater) haha
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I'm going to need some mounts welded onto the subframe to bolt my seat onto (broke off in crash). Does anyone here do that kind of thing?
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1/2 cheater ... it' still not an R6 ...
Got to go & pick up my 1.10 RaceTech fork springs from PO tomorrow and drop them off at Nicks. I can't wait for 26th to see what real suspension feels like through T1.
(Shock Treatment rang me back on Mon to say they didn't have 1.05 fork springs ... 1.00 or 1.1 ... and as I'm 98kg thort it was best to round up rather than down)
How much are they worth? I think I'm .95 (using the old internet shock weight calculator- what ever that's worth...)
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I think I'll also need a k3 600 fairing stay. Old mate who owned my bike before just lopped the top off the original one and ran with no upper support on the fairings. Will see if it will support the 600 fairings. Doesn't seem like a terrible idea though - didn't seen to make any difference and one less thing to break if / when you come off. Found China eBay specials for $60 though!
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Can't get delivery till early feb so might have go out on the 27th without. Fuck it's coming up quick!
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I've got one in storage that you can have ... very slightly bent, just needs a little heat ... I ordered two of the farkers off eBay two months ago ... still not here ... :(
Cheers mate! I'll fill my zippo up haha
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Did you order the china / Hong Kong ones?
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LOL ...
Just needs little heat to bend LHS back 1cm ... standard plumbers brazing blow torch would do it ...
I'll go and grab it from storage tomorrow.
Yup ... been waiting since Nov ... being an optimist I ordered 2 of them ... got in touch with them two days ago and they say returned. Want me to find out what the PO did or didn't do before they consider resending ... NOT happy Jan. But eBay clip ons arrived within a week ... look and feel fine.
At $60 +P&H they are half the price of a second hand one from the wreckers ... assuming you can find one ... last one cost me over $200 to get it delivered next day so I could make St George. Another wrecker I was counting on called 4 days after the order was in to say he now didn't have the right part and sorry.
I'm now ready for the springs, so hurry upGot to go & pick up my 1.10 RaceTech fork springs from PO tomorrow and drop them off at Nicks. I can't wait for 26th to see what real suspension feels like through T1.
(Shock Treatment rang me back on Mon to say they didn't have 1.05 fork springs ... 1.00 or 1.1 ... and as I'm 98kg thort it was best to round up rather than down
I also finished fully disassembling your forks (you saw the state of the oil in them already), checked everything (bushes, tubes, valving, cartridges), changed the fork seals, and reassembled them up to needing springs. Apart from the oil, they were actually really pretty good inside. Normal wear on the bushes, within tolerances, but otherwise in good condition for their age.
While I was in a 'suspension' mood, I also built Spilly a kick-ass rear shock for the R6 - revalved and resprung with Ohlins. Keen for him to try it out at one of the upcoming track days....
Looooong day today! Just finished now.
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I'm now ready for the springs, so hurry up
I also finished fully disassembling your forks (you saw the state of the oil in them already), checked everything (bushes, tubes, valving, cartridges), changed the fork seals, and reassembled them up to needing springs. Apart from the oil, they were actually really pretty good inside. Normal wear on the bushes, within tolerances, but otherwise in good condition for their age.
While I was in a 'suspension' mood, I also built Spilly a kick-ass rear shock for the R6 - revalved and resprung with Ohlins. Keen for him to try it out at one of the upcoming track days....
Looooong day today! Just finished now.
Nick you are a champion !!!
I doubt either end has ever been serviced. I am so looking forward to riding the new fixed bouncy bits bike I booked 27th as well as the already booked 26th.T1's going to feel way different ...
I have day off tomorrow, was going to pickup package from PO in morning ... what's best time that suits to come round in arvo / evening ... going to be easier for two to put some of it back together?
I'll give you a call tomorrow & I'll bring some cash for a progress payment !!! ...
$169 ... Grant suggested to use 1.2's for my 'weight problem', but after a long chat with Marshy I agree I want to transition slowwwwwwly to a harder spring from the current light stock ... so once I get use to these 1.1's might slowly increase further as/if I up my lap pace ... or not if I really like. I can see a lot of experimentation to get the feel you want ... but need a proper baseline which now possible. I can see I'm going to need to ship the bike to WA to keep playing / testing. One day I might even have some idea what I'm doing :-)
I'm at that same stage chasing a baseline as well. I'll have a bash at setting this up by the book and go from there. Going to have to suss my rear as well; can only assume it's as ragged as the forks were :(
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Legend!
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Dan, if you wanna pop over and work on the rear shock, I'm happy to give you a hand
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I can do it if its steel but would guess its aluminium . If it is aluminium then laurie alderton at smithfield who straightens frames and wheels does aluminium welding.
Cbr 600rr 07 track
I'll drop it off at Marshy's when I am over today.
Must be some engineering workshops in the yellow pages closer to you that could do a little job like that.
No...I'm not loving that and I'm not loving that!
http://www.break.com/video/ugc/oran-...il-2009-702765
http://www.break.com/video/ugc/track...d-video-625380
Probably is just thought I'd suss the old TT resources first.
The dude in the workshop next to mine might even be able to help me. Will ask tonight.
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That would be great. You around this weekend?Dan, if you wanna pop over and work on the rear shock, I'm happy to give you a hand
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Yeah mate, just call first, but should be around all weekend
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Had a bit of trouble trying to unbolt the rear shock but finally after a bit of persuasion got it out. The problem was, i didn't have the bike supported properly and the rear collapsed onto my hand. Lucky my mate was there working on a bike with his dad and they were able to lift it off. Hand got trapped between the swingarm and the subframe. Not broken but pretty sore. This bloody bike haha
Success!
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Also pulled apart the gsxr1000 forks I have to inspect the damage on the inside of the outer tube of one of the legs. There is definitely a dent protruding but it is way up the top of the tube. Obviously one would need to see it to give a proper judgement but generally speaking is this a problem? I would say it is an 30mm from the top of the tube.
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Might bring them over with me on the weekend Marshy for a second opinion. Can't wait to get them on. Love the gold stuff.
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Dan I dropped off the old front fairing stay at Marshy's, grab it when you are over there.
No cheating and getting a QS.
That's best done as a two man job. Getting it out AND back in. Hope you're OK?
As you describe it, no it's probably not a problem. There are two things to consider:
1. Does it inhibit or interfere with any moving parts within the fork? How far does it intrude (ie how deep is the dent) and does it touch on anything inside the fork? If it is above all the moving parts (spring and cartridge) and in line with the spring spacer, then it's possibly ok, assuming it's not touching the spacer and shaving off little bits of white plastic into the fork oil over every bump.
2. Is it indicative of more damage to the tube (ie is the tube still straight overall)? A bent tube will cause all sorts of grief with every other component pretty quickly and will need to be fixed or replaced before use.
Bring it with you. Also bring the rest of the fork (innards and lower), so that we can line them up etc.
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Dan,
if you don't want to go see the best in the biz (Laurie Alderton) give my mate Jarod a call at Alsop engineering.
He builds amazing custom shit for me all the time and works with all metal.
They're in Alexandria, near TDC.
http://www.alsopengineering.com.au
2/17-21 Bowden St, Alexandria NSW 2015
(02) 9699 0083
BTW, Soundwave isn't a tour, it's a Rock n' Roll picnic and you know it.
J.
It's probably a third of the way down the spring spacer so isn't in line with any of the moving parts. The intrusion is only a couple of mills so doesn't appear that it will hit the spacer.
After I realised this my concern was tube strength. I'll bring it over would like to know what you think.
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