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Thread: CAPTIVE REAR BRAKE

  1. #1

    CAPTIVE REAR BRAKE

    Hi all, I made my rear brake captive on the R1 today. Am still going to make a progressive chock for the wheel then it should just roll in and out.
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  2. #2
    misguided youth Little Mick's Avatar
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    Very nice Steve😎

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  3. #3
    Nice one Steve. I'd say there will be a few looking at this as an option, seems to be a nightmare on the new R1s


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  4. #4
    Admin Turbo's Avatar
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    Awesome idea, Steve!! I've heard the new R1's can be a little fiddly.
    How is it to use??
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  5. #5
    It should be sweet, The two bolts that are in there are bottomed out in the bracket and loose in the countersink to allow the chain to be tightened and loctited in with the heads covered by the washer of the axle nut. Fast Frank makes a bracket for $150 US or $480 US including Lightech adjusters but where does it end. I put captive wheel spacers in and will make up a bracket to hold the chain out of the way and a ramp so the wheel can be pushed forward to remove the chain and then roll out and down at the same time to clear the sensor . I mocked it all up yesterday and its pretty sweet.

  6. #6
    Bloody great idea Steve. I bought one for the zx10, different design but works great



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  7. #7
    Brilliant Steve & simple... I like simple !
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  8. #8
    That's very cool!! Thanks for sharing. I'm not liking rear wheel changes much on the R1, although now that I've worked out a technique they aren't quite as shit as they were at first. They are still pretty shit tho!
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  9. #9
    I had it in and out about 5 times yesterday and it is pretty methodical now , most of the hit and miss has been taken out of it. Hey Marshy if you get the chance can you post pictures of where you put the ECU ?

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by stevem View Post
    I had it in and out about 5 times yesterday and it is pretty methodical now , most of the hit and miss has been taken out of it. Hey Marshy if you get the chance can you post pictures of where you put the ECU ?
    Knowing you Steve nothing will be left to chance.

    So will the meat cleaver be returning on the brake pedal or will Woolich/TC be taking care of everything?
    Last edited by nigelnobody; 26-04-2017 at 04:51 PM.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by nigelnobody View Post
    Knowing you Steve nothing will be left to chance.

    So will the meat cleaver be returning on the brake pedal or will Woolich/TC be taking care of everything?
    Hi John, I have some rearsets to try, When I rode it I could feel the side control working but want to keep the electronics in the background as much as possible. There is a place for them but not at the expense of robbing power.

  12. #12
    All you have to do now is ride the bloody thing Steve!
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  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfie57 View Post
    All you have to do now is ride the bloody thing Steve!
    OUCH.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by stevem View Post
    Hey Marshy if you get the chance can you post pictures of where you put the ECU ?
    Here ya go mate. I just cut away at some of the insulation at the big join, to get a bit of extra length and flexibility in the ECU wiring. Then poked the two plugs back under the frame. Peel the heat shield and foam off the OEM fairing panel (it leaves a small amount of foam behind, but that's ok), then wrap the ECU in the foam, with the heat shield facing outwards and underneath (to sit on top of the motor), hold in place with a bit of tape, and lob it in under the tank. Good to go! It just sits there, and the bottom of the tank stops it from moving around. Easy.








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  15. #15
    Thanks for that Nick

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