The Red Baron has arrived

[Turbo]

Noooooooo surely not. I had high hopes for a blue, back lit switch myself one day.
More research I say, theres got to be a better quality one out there.


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I know, Gutted!! I'm all ears for ideas.... Already tried Jaycar, Altronics, Wes Components and element14....

Since there's no blue led, may I suggest

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2015-dodg...8AAOSwPv9XME-a

That's fukin badas!!!
They're momentary buttons tho... I need a latching...

[Ruckos87]

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/perfor...ocker-switches
Not as ( night rider) cool but at lease there's light


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[Turbo]

Hmmmm, not IP rated unfortunately.

[Marshy]

IP44: http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/rocker-switches/3779759/

Or this one: http://www.narva.com.au/products/detail/413/

I'm trying to work out how to get this to work!!! This is my fave, but it's momentary: https://www.autobarn.com.au/narva-bl...2v-50a-60097bl

[Marshy]

LED metal toggle at the bottom: http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/metal

[Turbo]

None of that is BLUE tho!!

I've got one for now anyway, red LED on top... it's no steel blue tho!

[Ruckos87]

Lol
Nick when up find a gooden let me know I need the do the 09.


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[Linden]

you all know how to put a relay in to allow low voltage and/or lock on actions (google latching relay circuits)

Personally I'd be considering a push button to latch on and the kill switch to disconnect

[Turbo]

Boom!!
It ain't no steel blue but I reckon the bike staying on is worth the compromise!!

[Marshy]

And it matches the Bitubo... Win win!!


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[zoidberg]

Boom!!
It ain't no steel blue but I reckon the bike staying on is worth the compromise!!

I dunno, I reckon bike intermittently cutting out was worth the blue goodness.

[Leezx10r]

Couldn't help myself

[Leezx10r]

..

[Turbo]

I dunno, I reckon bike intermittently cutting out was worth the blue goodness.

You're welcome to try...!

Couldn't help myself

[Baddie]

Couldn't help myself

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfaa0Sjczik

love that movie...pmsl

[Leezx10r]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfaa0Sjczik

love that movie...pmsl

It gets me every time.


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[Linden]

That's fukin badas!!!
They're momentary buttons tho... I need a latching...

Actually that was just for the STICKER

But as I said any switch can be made latching (and any amp) with a relay (just need a way of turning it off ie second switch)

[Turbo]

Sure, but then you need 2 switches and a relay as opposed to the one switch I ended up fitting.
Anyhow, the problem has been solved!

[Turbo]

As I've mentioned a few time on this thread, I've been hitting false neutrals a little too regularly on this bike.
So, the time has come to get it fixed.

The first thing I pointed the finger at was the Vortex rearsets. Using GP shift pattern is a workaround on this bike and I suspected something wasn't quite right, by the feel of the shifts.
Naturally I assumed I knew more than a manual so I threw it out before assembling the rearsets... turns out you have to be VERY accurate with the shift rod assembly:
+/- 0.005!! It'd be an imperial measurement but still... shit!


That actually cleared up a lot of shift issues and the QS seemed to be working a lot better. I was still getting false neutrals tho....

Next avenue after talking with Wolfie and Jonnyb, was possibly a new shift detent spring. The shift detent spring is a spring that holds the shift arm to the selector star.
It's a pretty cheap part so I thought I'd give it a try.

First the clutch cover off..





Set the motor to Top Dead Centre with my specialised BMW TDC tool... otherwise known as a t-handle





pressure plate off....





friction plates out...





clutch basket out and there she is...





Out comes the shift arm too and you can see the spring around it...





Got the new part shipped from these guys..




As you can see, it's a much heavier gauge spring with a lot of resistance to it....



Back in it goes and GONE are the false neutrals!! The end result is a MUCH more positive 'clunk' into gear and no hint of a false neutral at all, HAPPY DAYS!!


The last couple of mods for the bike is the addition of the 2D Datalogger. It's a GPS and telemetry logger that, at 100Hz, gives a bewildering array of data channels to analyse and ignore







and the final piece of the Bitubo puzzle, a steering damper to complete the bouncy bits suite...
Can't wait to have a crack on Thursday!!

[Marshy]

Niiiiiiiice!

[Wolfie57]

Good work mate, keen to see what you think of the datalogger......

[stevem]

Owen are you getting neutrals on the upshift or downshift ? I had a few in mine early on and went the spring and became very definite with the shifting and the problem went away.Before quick shifters I used to hold the lever up after shifting up (normal pattern) while I nailed it so if it went to jump out it would go straight back in.

[Leezx10r]

Excellent write up Owen, will be great to catch up on Thursday see you there mate


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[Turbo]

Thanks all!!

Yeah, Steve it was mostly downshifts at the end of the straight so I was coasting through T1!
Good idea with holding the lever up, happily this mod seems to have sorted it completely!

[Turbo]

So I've been chasing a little more in terms of setup with the BMW. The first step was to lengthen the wheelbase and make the gearing a little taller.
The idea being slightly less propensity to wheelie on corner exit, with the ability to get on the gas earlier and harder.
Happily this worked and the bike is firing forward now, much more than go upwards!! Back into the sub 40's for the first time on this bike, which I'm pretty happy with.

The next part of the geometry setup is to try and get some of the turning ability back, after having lengthened the wheelbase, and to get some much needed 'feel' from the front end.
As I've discovered, the BMW are notorious for a vague feeling front end, and you're left sort of trusting it'll hold when you tip in, rather than getting good feedback to push (or not!) on.
I've seen a HEAP of people with the IMA's so I ordered a set of Racing Triples with a bunch of different offset bushes to try as well as their variable angle clipons...






They're HEAPS different to the oem in terms of construction. The idea is that the bottom clamp is super sturdy whilst the top clamp has more lateral flex.
This apparently translates into very precise control and improved feeling through the bars for what exactly the road surface, tyre and suspension are doing.
If the end result is even close to the immaculate precision they're engineered with, I've a feeling they're going to be amazing!!



The clip-ons are pretty cool too. Adjustable bar angle from 0 to 7.5 degrees in 2.5 degree increments.
Very robust deign again, strong in all the right places.



Here's a time-lapse of Marshy and me doing the install:



The last thing for now was what to do with my ignition switch. IMA do one that is a work of art but I didn't really want anything to obscure my lap timer...\
'Launch' button it is then!!



Test run at the next ARDC day, can't wait!!

[stevem]

Nice Owen, I was talking to Glenn heaps ago about steering head bearing and he had tapered roller bearing and later met the S1000rr engineer and had it explained to him why ball bearings are better with the beemer. I can't remember why but it was enough for Glenn to change back to ball bearings so interesting to see they have ball bearings. Did they come with bearings. Keep in mind Krooztune make a shorter dog bone for the beemer that helped me with edge grip and getting on the gas and driving forward. It was 5mm shorter .

[Turbo]

Nice Owen, I was talking to Glenn heaps ago about steering head bearing and he had tapered roller bearing and later met the S1000rr engineer and had it explained to him why ball bearings are better with the beemer. I can't remember why but it was enough for Glenn to change back to ball bearings so interesting to see they have ball bearings. Did they come with bearings. Keep in mind Krooztune make a shorter dog bone for the beemer that helped me with edge grip and getting on the gas and driving forward. It was 5mm shorter .

Thanks Steve! Yeah, I'd heard that about bearings too. Although I couldn't tell you why either!
IMA don't supply bearings with their triples. The ones I have are just a new OEM set I bought to fit up.
Interesting about the Dog Bone... Is it just like a lowering link type product?
I've actually been looking into getting a linear linkage for that same edge grip and getting on the gas thing...

[stevem]

https://www.krooztune.com/collections/all Give them a call. It was just the dog bone part not the knuckle, $100+ not the $800 or so of the complete linkage. It would be interesting to see you try a 42 rear and second onto the straight with plenty of rear brake also.

[Turbo]

https://www.krooztune.com/collections/all Give them a call. It was just the dog bone part not the knuckle, $100+ not the $800 or so of the complete linkage. It would be interesting to see you try a 42 rear and second onto the straight with plenty of rear brake also.

AWESOME!! That's a great plan, thanks for the info Steve!
I'm deff keen to try a 42, might need to get the thumb brake installed before dropping to 2nd onto the straight tho!

[Wolfie57]

Very interesting guys, keen to see how this works..

[Turbo]

I was lucky enough to get in on the first Australian shipment (and I'm pretty sure, the WORLD!) of IMA's new Thumb Brake System.
The first lot arrived a few days ago and they look just as well designed and engineered as their triples and clip-ons!







They're available in a few different kits and mounting options. I wanted the lowest profile MC up at the bars, so opted for the Complete F Kit with fork mount.

First job was to assemble the top and rear MC and thumb assembly, in order to work out what length of brake line I'd need and what the best angle of banjo bolt would be.
Basically the length of the red line here:




Someone has clearly thought about this!!



Rear MC fits well too, that gives me a good idea of what angle the banjo will need to be.




I thread some string through the run I wanted to take, from the thumb, through the bike, back to the rear MC. Then, measured it up before ordering the custom length and banjo angles from Hel Australia.




While I was waiting for the braided line to be made, I set about finding a good place to fit a reservoir.
I was tempted to go the HRC shorty reservoir I normally use for the rear, but with such a long line and ideally more use out of the thumb action, I'm thinking there may be more heat expansion so a proper race reservoir would be a good idea.







The line arrived very quickly so I didn't have to wait long for the next step! First up was to tie the banjo to the end of the string I used for measuring.
This made pulling it through the bike a breeze!




Happily the time spent on measurement was worth it and the line was a factory fit!






Purging the system was a bit of a PITA because I didn't have all the right bits and had to Mcguyver a syringe.. but basically the method is to syringe in the new brake fluid from the caliper, and push out all the air, until it reaches the reservoir at the top.
The 'one wee trick' is to take off both MC's and shake them around as well as actuate the levers to get the last few bubbles out.
After that, I was able to bleed as normal to make sure there were no stray bubbles around. It was actually quite good to use a good amount of brake fluid rather than the tiny amount that normally gets used before you bin the bottle!



Last step was to tidy up the lines and secure it to the bike and the loom that I'd run it along.




Can't wait to have a crack!!

[Slow bro]

Let me know how it goes ( very interested). I've left a message with Nick but he hasn't got back to me yet.

[Turbo]

Will do mate. When are you out next??

[stevem]

Nice work Dovi.

[Slow bro]

Will do mate. When are you out next??

Haven't booked anything yet.

[Petefrost]

Nice work Owen. Really nice. So did you run the line over the engine? Where does it exit?

[Turbo]

Nice work Owen. Really nice. So did you run the line over the engine? Where does it exit?

Thanks Pete! I ran it along the underside of the loom. Exit at the front is shown in the pic with the pink string tied to the banjo.
Exit at the rear is shown in the last pic.

[Slow98]

I fitted mine up last night to the Panigale. I used the oem mc and purchased the bar mount. Hind sight i would have got the fork mount as there wasnt enough room on the bars to just throw it on , also the Pani runs a hydraulic clutch, so I have 2 reservoirs side by side .
Another tip ...... I have purchased on EBay a couple of banjo bolts with bleeder valves in them , its a bitch of a system to get the air out of . Be a month before I can try it out .

[Turbo]

Nice work Dovi.

[Marshy]

This looks AMAZEBALLS!!!! Can't wait to fit mine up too.... I was just waiting for you to iron out all the fitting wrinkles, and then mine'll be easy

[Marshy]

Let me know how it goes ( very interested). I've left a message with Nick but he hasn't got back to me yet.

Sorry mate! Been a bit chaotic here lately. Will call you back first thing in the morning

[Ruckos87]

This looks AMAZEBALLS!!!! Can't wait to fit mine up too.... I was just waiting for you to iron out all the fitting wrinkles, and then mine'll be easy

Lol me too.
Great work Owen. Thanks for doing the install leg work


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