Let me know how it goes ( very interested). I've left a message with Nick but he hasn't got back to me yet.
I was lucky enough to get in on the first Australian shipment (and I'm pretty sure, the WORLD!) of IMA's new Thumb Brake System.
The first lot arrived a few days ago and they look just as well designed and engineered as their triples and clip-ons!
They're available in a few different kits and mounting options. I wanted the lowest profile MC up at the bars, so opted for the Complete F Kit with fork mount.
First job was to assemble the top and rear MC and thumb assembly, in order to work out what length of brake line I'd need and what the best angle of banjo bolt would be.
Basically the length of the red line here:
Someone has clearly thought about this!!
Rear MC fits well too, that gives me a good idea of what angle the banjo will need to be.
I thread some string through the run I wanted to take, from the thumb, through the bike, back to the rear MC. Then, measured it up before ordering the custom length and banjo angles from Hel Australia.
While I was waiting for the braided line to be made, I set about finding a good place to fit a reservoir.
I was tempted to go the HRC shorty reservoir I normally use for the rear, but with such a long line and ideally more use out of the thumb action, I'm thinking there may be more heat expansion so a proper race reservoir would be a good idea.
The line arrived very quickly so I didn't have to wait long for the next step! First up was to tie the banjo to the end of the string I used for measuring.
This made pulling it through the bike a breeze!
Happily the time spent on measurement was worth it and the line was a factory fit!
Purging the system was a bit of a PITA because I didn't have all the right bits and had to Mcguyver a syringe.. but basically the method is to syringe in the new brake fluid from the caliper, and push out all the air, until it reaches the reservoir at the top.
The 'one wee trick' is to take off both MC's and shake them around as well as actuate the levers to get the last few bubbles out.
After that, I was able to bleed as normal to make sure there were no stray bubbles around. It was actually quite good to use a good amount of brake fluid rather than the tiny amount that normally gets used before you bin the bottle!
Last step was to tidy up the lines and secure it to the bike and the loom that I'd run it along.
Can't wait to have a crack!!
Skywalker - 2017 BMW S1000RR FOZ/Unlimited/Bears Race Bike #62
Red Baron - 2013 BMW S1000RR FOZ/Unlimited/Bears Race Bike #62
Let me know how it goes ( very interested). I've left a message with Nick but he hasn't got back to me yet.
Will do mate. When are you out next??
Skywalker - 2017 BMW S1000RR FOZ/Unlimited/Bears Race Bike #62
Red Baron - 2013 BMW S1000RR FOZ/Unlimited/Bears Race Bike #62
Nice work Dovi.
Nice work Owen. Really nice. So did you run the line over the engine? Where does it exit?
2012 BMW S1000RR
Skywalker - 2017 BMW S1000RR FOZ/Unlimited/Bears Race Bike #62
Red Baron - 2013 BMW S1000RR FOZ/Unlimited/Bears Race Bike #62
I fitted mine up last night to the Panigale. I used the oem mc and purchased the bar mount. Hind sight i would have got the fork mount as there wasnt enough room on the bars to just throw it on , also the Pani runs a hydraulic clutch, so I have 2 reservoirs side by side .
Another tip ...... I have purchased on EBay a couple of banjo bolts with bleeder valves in them , its a bitch of a system to get the air out of . Be a month before I can try it out .
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I did a soft fitment of mine yesterday day. It's fantastic!!!
I got the the complete kit also, mainly because the RSV4 rear reservoir is built in to the MC so relocating it would've been a nightmare.
Can't wait to put the lines on Friday. Shoujd be a breeze with Owens tips
Excellent write up Owen. The install and product looks really smart.
Cannot wait to get your feedback after your first outing
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Had a chance to test out the new system today... What can I say? WOW!!
Using it came VERY easily, second nature by T3 of the out lap! I played with the action a little but the positioning worked well for me where it was.
Soooo useful to modulate the front wheel gently back down whilst still being hard on the gas. Plenty of time to think about it mid-corner and worked like a charm with tightening turns that were feeling a little loose or over cooked.
Can't believe I've been riding without one for so long. I will need this on every bike I have from now on!!
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Red Baron - 2013 BMW S1000RR FOZ/Unlimited/Bears Race Bike #62
Sure will
Although I was pretty convinced everyone would like them, which is why I started bringing them in. Owen was grinning like a Cheshire cat yesterday. And did a new PB by a very significant amount.
I fitted up another customer's R1 (Mario Gonzales) on Saturday, and he used it at the Creek for the first time yesterday too. Like Owen, he absolutely loved it! Reckoned it felt totally natural immediately, and was fantastic for modulating rear brake application.
A couple of pics of the install:
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The rear master cylinder is hidden behind the carbon heel guard, which is a pity because they are sooooo sexy! Mario got the Complete kit with two IMA master cylinders.
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It's worth pointing out that Mario's thumb position ended up to be quite different to mine. Mine was pretty much as pictured but Mario holds the edge of the bars, when riding, so he adjusted the thumb paddle to be closer to the middle of the grip.
I think it's this sort of adjustability that is making it feel so natural to use. You just don't have to think about it, it's right where your thumb is!
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I got to test my brake today , only on the road , so not quite at the speeds for track. Seems as though there is plenty of potential there. Just a question , what does the lever feel like, on the spongy side ? I am quite sure I have expelled all the air , I pushed it up the line with a syringe , and the foot pedal is really firm .
I thought it was just a bit spongy at first. But it meant that there was still air in the line. Once it's all out, it should be really quite firm, like a normal brake lever. Turn the master cylinders upside down, back to front, and round and round, whilst pumping the lever to get all the air out. Also, take your rear caliper off the bike, and turn it upside down and around, because often the bubble is in the caliper itself.
Getting it properly bled took longer than I thought it would. I was using a syringe from the caliper upwards too, but it didn't get all the air out. Turning everything upside down did the trick. And once it's done properly, it's amazeballs!
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Thanks Nick
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Thanks mate. I started using the rear brake again at Darwin last week for the slow hairpin, lucky its a left hander. I will have to see how long the brake line needs to be from him , who makes it up for him.
Just order from HEL Australia. The brake line for an RSV4 needs to be 1300mm, if you are keeping the footbrake. You need to get a 45 degree banjo on one end, and a straight banjo on the other. You also need to order THREE single Brembo-sized banjo bolts.
Dean at HEL did ours overnight. Easy and cheap. There's a wide range of colours too.
You will also need a reservoir, some tubing and a mounting bracket. We can supply all those too.
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A bit of mucking around because I brought the wrong (raised clipons) a year ago. But still soooooo good.
Just remember you can't relocate the aprilia MC as its got the reservoir built in. You'll need minimum the racing or complete set up.
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thanks guys. Will do away with the rear brake m/c and pedal all together ,
I don't run a rear brake foot lever. I just needed a operating rear brake which I do that is operated by my thumb.
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Thanks Linden , and Leezx, yeah I cant see any problem with it , if it's good enough for Mick Doohan , it's good enough for me.
Without looking up the actual wording, I can tell you that it says you must have two (independent?) working brakes. It doesn't specify the location of the lever. It just requires you to have a second brake as backup in case of brake failure on the first brake.
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Here we go:
10.17.3 Brakes
10.17.3.1 At least two efficient brakes must operate independently of each other on the front and rear wheels.
That's it. No other specifics.
Link: http://ma.org.au/fileadmin/user_uplo...date_30_06.pdf
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John Price races with just the thumb operated rear brake. He doesn't even have a footpeg let alone a foot brake lever. As long as you have the thumb brake working, it should pass scrutineering fine.
I seriously need one of these thumb brakes; but, I need them for 6 different bikes.
2011 ZX10R track/race bike
ZRX1200 road bike
Period 6 ZXR 750 race bike
P6 250 production RMX250 motard race bike
2015 YZ450F Dirt track/motard
TE511 trail bike/motard
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