Awesome work
I'm on my second OEM switch block on a 2010 and it's gone again. Can't justify the expense of the aftermarket alpha/stm switchs etc.
So I thought that given the constant OEM failures and high cost of prewired aftermarket solutions that it might be of interest to any race/track bike owners not requiring the other switches (blinker, headlights, horn etc) or even if you want to remove the switch for safe keeping in case of a crash at the track. Or if like happened to me at a race meeting, you're at the track and your switch fails and you want to be able to switch TC/ABS on/off and nobody has a spare.
I've stationary tested it and works fine. No warning lights or faults. I won't get a chance to double check everything and ride the bike for another month or so.
The below photos show the plug and the pins within the plug that operate the TC/ABS button.
The wires if you wish to splice into them are brown/blue & brown/black.
The end result is this complicated piece is removed and goes:
To this - single round black momentary switch allows switching of the Traction Control and ABS if you have it connected.
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Pre Modern Formula 1 Champion 2013 (GSXR750T)
www.wet4uracing.com.au Race bike & mechanical prep, fairings and parts - www.bikeshop.com.au (Protech Motorcycles)Tyres, parts and dyno tuning www.stayupright.com.au motorcycle rider training from learners through to track skills - http://worthingtonmotorcycles.com.au BMW, Honda, MV Augusta, Moto Guzzi and Aprilia
Hi Rick, So the two wires you joined together do traction and ABS ? Do you have your abs on the bike or is it removed ? My ABS pump has been removed, just wondering if that would trigger a fault code or something silly. Nice work man, get rid of all that crap on the left bar. Cheers
Very tidy! Nice work, Rick.
Skywalker - 2017 BMW S1000RR FOZ/Unlimited/Bears Race Bike #62
Red Baron - 2013 BMW S1000RR FOZ/Unlimited/Bears Race Bike #62
Hey Steve,
I just used the wire in the photo to show which pins. It's normally open circuit and you just need a momentary switch to close it (same as OEM)
My ABS is also removed. There are no codes coming up and as far as I can tell from the original switch block it is just a switch, albeit a complicated one.
I can't be 100% sure until I can ride it and the bike goes through the TC self test. I'd ride it up the road if I didn't live opposite a highway patrolman.
It's a good way to go to get rid of those vulnerable plastics even just to take the oem switch off for safe keeping
Pre Modern Formula 1 Champion 2013 (GSXR750T)
www.wet4uracing.com.au Race bike & mechanical prep, fairings and parts - www.bikeshop.com.au (Protech Motorcycles)Tyres, parts and dyno tuning www.stayupright.com.au motorcycle rider training from learners through to track skills - http://worthingtonmotorcycles.com.au BMW, Honda, MV Augusta, Moto Guzzi and Aprilia
Pre Modern Formula 1 Champion 2013 (GSXR750T)
www.wet4uracing.com.au Race bike & mechanical prep, fairings and parts - www.bikeshop.com.au (Protech Motorcycles)Tyres, parts and dyno tuning www.stayupright.com.au motorcycle rider training from learners through to track skills - http://worthingtonmotorcycles.com.au BMW, Honda, MV Augusta, Moto Guzzi and Aprilia
Rick , the bit you removed with the blue buttons looks like something that controls the tardis ..
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