I geared a bit longer on my bike to overcome the lack of terminal velocity, and it made a big difference. Give a 44 a go. As you get quicker out of T12, you need taller gearing.
I'm getting 250 on the GPS at the end of the straight. 113 rwhp, and I'm only a few kgs lighter than you. I reckon it was running out of puff, as peak power is a fair bit lower than redline.
IMA Thumb Brakes! Shop now
Annitori QS PRO quickshifters Shop now
Superbike Source Racing: 'Like' our page to keep up-to-date with all our racing
I'm running 44 rear on the srad and getting just on 240 with 115rwhp and similar lard.
Pre Modern Formula 1 Champion 2013 (GSXR750T)
www.wet4uracing.com.au Race bike & mechanical prep, fairings and parts - www.bikeshop.com.au (Protech Motorcycles)Tyres, parts and dyno tuning www.stayupright.com.au motorcycle rider training from learners through to track skills - http://worthingtonmotorcycles.com.au BMW, Honda, MV Augusta, Moto Guzzi and Aprilia
Mine shows just under 260 on the dial (15/45) and my GPS is around 225 on the straight as well. I'm running out of puff when I get to my markers. Interested to hear how your 44 goes.
Just looked my configuration up on gearingcommander.com and it reckons my top should be around 229 so that's probably not far off. 235kmh if I went 44 at the back.
Thanks nick, I will definitely buy a 44t before my next outing. I was checking gearing commander vs my logged GPS max speeds. On the dyno my bike drops off at 14,500 and limiter is at 15,000. On the straight 225 is the exact speed gearing commander says for 14,500. I'm maxing out my top speed in 3rd between T3-T4 and T4-T5, but I can actually hit 15k down the hill from T3 (since its down hill). Going to a 44 will give me about 5kph more in each gear so I shouldn't have to spin it past 14,500 anywhere.
Having data is so useful! I've picked up so much from being able to video and time properly.
Doesn't running a 190 on a 5.5 rim pinch the tyre?
Thanks bob, I'm running 15/45 with a 180. You're a fair bit lighter than me though, ill start with the 44 and if I get good enough to top that out then ill drop another tooth. For me its not the main straight thats an issue (i expect to lose out a bit there), but the two spots i mentioned where a top out 3rd. Luckily sprockets are pretty cheap so it's not a big deal to experiment with.
Always thought apart from the dunlops
The rest gets pinched
IMA Thumb Brakes! Shop now
Annitori QS PRO quickshifters Shop now
Superbike Source Racing: 'Like' our page to keep up-to-date with all our racing
Yeah I still have chicky strips on my rear and front tyres... seriously not joking
They do this year but it used to be a 190 if I'm not mistaken
You'd be surprised about the actual width of various tyres, remembering that the profile plays a part too, along with tyre design in general (sidewall stiffness etc). Fourex ample, the Dunlop 190/55 GPAs are 188.5mm wide, whereas the 190/60 are 191.3mm.
Bigger differences are with some of the other tyres - the treaded GP rear (UK treaded) in 200/55 are only 191 wide (ie narrower than the 190 GPA). The Buffalo (US ntec slick) in a 190 are 188.5, but only 194 in a 200. And the awesome UK ntec rear slick in a 195 are actually only 191, BUT they are super high, so often don't fit in the swingarm without a new, longer chain!
On the front, the 125/80 Buffalo are narrower than the 120/70 KR106 (118 v 119). But then again, the UK 211GP treaded in 120/70 is 119, but the US 211GPA in the identical size of 120/70 is 123.
So there ya go! It's not all about the number stamped on the sidewall.
Source: http://www.dunlopracing.com/fitment.pdf
IMA Thumb Brakes! Shop now
Annitori QS PRO quickshifters Shop now
Superbike Source Racing: 'Like' our page to keep up-to-date with all our racing
Just when I thought I was understanding something...
Trying to understand tyres and suspension is going to be the death of me.
There are currently 5 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 5 guests)
Bookmarks