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Thread: My ZX6R build - The Kangasaki

  1. #1

    My ZX6R build - The Kangasaki

    Hey guys so heres my build thread. Converting my road ZX6R to a tracky.

    So got a cheap set of fairings which took me and embarrassingly long time to fit. When we first put them on my first thought there was no way I will be able to put them on by my self but after leaving them on the bike for a while they seem to have bent in to shape and a lot easier to get on and off again. Just gotta paint em now.


    I've got some front and rear sprockets on the way (-1/+2) and a new chain. Was planning on using the old but after Marty suggested I check it first it definitely had way to much movement. Especially sideways.

    Also have some Vesrah SRJL-XX front brake pads coming, heard they are the sh*t so decided to give em a go. I've read you don't have to bed them in but you do need to prep your rotors, anyone able to confirm/disagree with that?

    Also ordered a dan moto link pipe since the fairings don't fit with the prechamber. Turns out my scorpion muffler is designed to work with out the stock gasket so its to big for the dan moto link pipe. Managed to source a second hand pinebox link pipe which from the dimensions the guy gave me should work out. Hopefully turn up in a week or two.


    Looking at what to do with the rear brake reservoir, could potentially try zip tying it to the exhaust hanger but Cliffy gave me the suggestion of setting up one of the HRC tube reservoirs which is what I'm leaning to at this point.
    Whats everyone's recommendation for brake fluid, is it worth forking out for race spec stuff? Going to flush out both at this point.

  2. #2
    Nice mate; thanks for posting. Fairings definitely mould to the bike after a couple of heat cycles, so ones that can be a pain to fit initially actually end up fitting perfectly.

    Vesrah SRJL are the bomb! I've been using them for a couple of years now, and they are a required fitment for any new bike. They require no bedding in whatsoever. It's advisable to give the discs a light sand (both sides ) before using them, but the necessity of that really depends a lot on which pads you had in immediately before. I've sanded and not sanded, and never noticed a difference, but certain types of pad material can be quite different to the Vesrahs, and brakig will definitely benefit from getting the non-compatible residue off the disc. This applies to most new pads, by the way; if the previous ones were from a different 'family' (ie of a different type) you need to sand. But most pads are basically sintered metal, and are compatible. If you had organic pads in for some reason, you'd definitely need to prep the discs!

    The HRC-type tube is the way to go on the ZX6R. The standard hose isn't long enough for rearsets, and the HRC plugs are available from any honda dealer for $4.50 ish, I think. Tygon tubing is readily available too, although I usually get mine overseas.

    Good brake fluid is very important in the front, and mostly unimportant in the rear. The race stuff is great, but bear in mind that unlike road-based fluid, you do need to change it every few months for optimum performance. Motul is the worst in this regard, in my experience. I've been running Silkolene race fluid for the last 6 months, and it is lasting a lot longer before going off. But if you don't absolutely punish your brakes (and a lot of riders don't), then any good quality fresh fluid is better than old, expensive race fluid.
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  3. #3
    I'll make this quick:
    -Go with HRC thingy (I have);
    -I had the SRJLs on the R6 and didn't do any prepping of the rotors... they performed awesome but then again maybe they could have been even better
    -Call whoever you got the sprockets from and ask to go with -1/+1 instead. I have -1/+2 on mine and I can guarantee you it's too short for EC (maybe good for the Sth Circuit) as you hit the limiter on the straight unless you're running a 200 rear.
    -Brake fluid, if it's for the front brakes, Castrol SRF. Costly and hard to find but it is better. I wouldn't worry about running anything that expensive on the rear.
    Last edited by Mr.Ed; 04-10-2013 at 11:38 AM.

  4. #4
    misguided youth Little Mick's Avatar
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    +1 on HRC thingy.. run 14:44 amd 15:44 gearing. Stock Chain length works fine.

    I run silkolene race fluid front and rear. peace of mind and dont change the rear very often so cost isnt as bad.

    I havent tried the fluid Ed mentioned but it comes highly recommended also.
    Life's too Short- YOLO!

  5. #5
    Moderator chubb's Avatar
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    Nothing wrong with running unpainted fairings...

    Mine still needs to be hit with a coat of paint

  6. #6
    misguided youth Little Mick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chubb View Post
    Nothing wrong with running unpainted fairings...

    Mine still needs to be hit with a coat of paint
    nothing wrong with being a slacker either Chubb paint your fairings....
    Life's too Short- YOLO!

  7. #7
    I run ATE blue fluid (it looks cool & offers good performance & makes bleeding out old fluid a piece of piss)

    the bestest is castrol SRF I can't justify dropping that much coin on brake fluid though, I'm not nearly quick enough to warrant it

  8. #8
    Unfortunately sprockets are already in the air somewhere between here and the states :S
    HRC tube set up it is!
    I had EBC-HH pads before which are sintered I believe. I'm still yellow group so unless I'm trying to save a screw up I'm not punishing the brakes still very much learning.
    Chubb at this point I'd say the paint is more to cover up all spots where the fiber glass has been repaired from drill holes which didn't quite work out hahaha
    Thanks for all the input guys! I'll keep updating with my progress

  9. #9
    Moderator chubb's Avatar
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    Bit of glass and body filler won't go astray!

    how much will changing brake fluid make?? I just use standard shell one.

    Brake pads?? don't need the best.. been using oem R6 ones

    However I did try the ferodo xracs

  10. #10
    Castrol SRF and stock pads.
    Have tried a couple of other pads and stock pads twice now.
    Will be stock pads when this set run out.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by chubb View Post
    how much will changing brake fluid make?? I just use standard shell one.
    quite a bit of difference in boiling point which in turn changes lever firmness, probably won't make a huge difference in a sprint race, but for something like the 4 hour definitely.

    I cooked stock brake fluid in my old TX3 at a drive day at Wacky went to brake after the kink at turn 2 & foot to the floor and car in the grass were the result

  12. #12
    Ok, lemme correct myself there... I did mean to say Castrol SRF but for some reason I thought it was RFS (that reason being I'm dyslexic) and when I looked it up on good it suggested the Motul and I went "Oh... that must be it then!" hahaha My bad! The good one is the SRF though, not the Motul I mentioned. I'll go back and edit that post for future reference...

    If you're still in yellow group, -1/+2 will work for you for a while... but once you pick up your speed it will get in the way in more ways than by just limiting your top speed (i.e. I hit the limiter out of T3 and T5 as well... PITA). If you run a tire with a larger diameter, say a 190/60 it will help a bit... on a 180/55 it will prob hit the limiter on the straight even at your current pace.

    Also, EBC has 2 different HH pads... make sure to get the RACE ones. The basic (and extremely cheap) HH are no good.

  13. #13
    Speaking of SRF, a mate desperately needs some for his ZX10 for FX tomorrow, and the shops are closed. Does anyone have any lying around?
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  14. #14
    Right me and No_style have SBK school L1 booked in for the 27th of November, EC GP track day 28th, wakefield 29th and double header EC track days 21st and 22nd of December. Bit of time to get this hunk of junk ready and something to look forward to

  15. #15
    Moderator chubb's Avatar
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    That reminds me I have to get my arse into gear and book the 28th GP circuit

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by chubb View Post
    That reminds me I have to get my arse into gear and book the 28th GP circuit
    Yeah we waited to long and have had to drop down to white group cause yellow was booked out.

  17. #17
    Mmmm turns out I need to buy some tools. Anyone able to tell me the size of the front sprocket nut?
    Need to get a 32mm socket for the rear axle nut and going to grab one of those multi size front axle hex tools for the front axle.

  18. #18

  19. #19
    Yeah that's what I'm buying for the front axle nut, trying to find the size of the front sprocket nut though since I'll grab a socket for it at the same time.

  20. #20
    Is it the stock front sprocket you're trying to remove? 'Cause if it is and you don't have a VERY powerful rachet gun, don't even bother... it won't budge.

  21. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Ed View Post
    Is it the stock front sprocket you're trying to remove? 'Cause if it is and you don't have a VERY powerful rachet gun, don't even bother... it won't budge.
    lol yeah stock. I've seen videos of people trying to do it. Mate of mine managed to do it with a few friends but took a lot of effort. Have some people coming around to mine to watch PI so will enlist there help, worse comes to worse if that fails I'll source a ratchet gun from some where.

  22. #22
    I've done it on other bikes but I'm yet to see a 09+ ZX6R that doesn't have that problem... I first tried a ratchet gun at a mate's house but he only had like a 30L compressor and it wasn't powerful enough to crack. So when I got home I got the longest pipe I could find to and had a friend hold the bike whilst I put on my might on it. Nothing. In the end, it required a proper mechanic's ratchet gun and even then it wasn't easy.

  23. #23
    I tried my rattle gun with the 30L compressor, and no joy. Spent $1k on a 100L, high HP, high flow-rate compressor, and still nothing. I've since learnt that flow rate isn't everything (and can sometimes be less effective, depending on the air tool itself). But I'm still using an el-cheapo rattle gun, which I should probably upgrade. Then again, today I just rattled off a Panigale rear wheel nut with no effort, and they are notoriously a biatch to get undone.
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  24. #24
    Moderator chubb's Avatar
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    Kawasaki uses hercules to do up their front sprocket nuts for them as their machines that do it doesnt tighten it up tight enough

  25. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by chubb View Post
    Kawasaki uses hercules to do up their front sprocket nuts for them as their machines that do it doesnt tighten it up tight enough
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  26. #26
    misguided youth Little Mick's Avatar
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    27mm deep socket for front sprocket... use impact socket - 6 sided not 12... and a 3/4" impact...
    Life's too Short- YOLO!

  27. #27
    or a snap on 18V rattle they are the tits

  28. #28
    Finally got my slicks fitted today, put the wheels aside until I have time to put them back on and realised I now have no way of knowing which side is the left or right side of the front lol Is there an obvious marker anywhere on the rim? n00b!
    Last edited by KANGA; 16-10-2013 at 05:27 PM.

  29. #29
    Moderator BoB's Avatar
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    not sure about the kwakis but on the cbr 600rr the discs have arrows on them showing the direction , also there is an arrow on the casting on the wheel , maybe different of the zx6
    Cbr 600rr 07 track

  30. #30
    Moderator chubb's Avatar
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    Look at the spokes.. hollow end follows the solid end.

    That'll tell you the direction for any motorcycle wheel

  31. #31
    There's an arrow on one side only

  32. #32
    Sweet cheers guys!

    Few updates


    Box of goodies, just waiting for my link pipe to turn up now


    I put the new brake pads in, I noticed the old one seem quite a bit discoloured on the mounting plates compared to others I've taken out. Is this normal or is it a sign something could be wrong?

  33. #33
    Moderator chubb's Avatar
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    Taking after the little one??

    I really need to get of my arse and paint mine

  34. #34
    Some quality parts there, mate! Who did you get the pads from if you mind me asking?!

  35. #35
    Bumblebee man

  36. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by chubb View Post
    Taking after the little one??

    I really need to get of my arse and paint mine
    Whose that? Next time I'm going one colour per piece lol

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Ed View Post
    Some quality parts there, mate! Who did you get the pads from if you mind me asking?!
    Sportbike track gear, had pretty good results ordering from them in the past but they lost my order in the system this time. Got it rolling quickly when they realised though.

  37. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by CLIFFY View Post
    Bumblebee man
    Yeah theres a gap between the tank cover and the tank which shows some green. My master plan is to cover it with black electrical tape. Quality work all over lol.

  38. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by KANGA View Post

    Sportbike track gear, had pretty good results ordering from them in the past but they lost my order in the system this time. Got it rolling quickly when they realised though.
    Thanks for that! I didn't realize they sold them... Was it $200 for all the pads? Heaps cheaper than what I have seen around.

  39. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Ed View Post
    Thanks for that! I didn't realize they sold them... Was it $200 for all the pads? Heaps cheaper than what I have seen around.
    It was just under 200 USD for both the front calipers

  40. #40
    Senior Member Medic!'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KANGA View Post
    Yeah theres a gap between the tank cover and the tank which shows some green. My master plan is to cover it with black electrical tape. Quality work all over lol.
    Make sure its race tape. Failing that I have some gold paint.........
    No...I'm not loving that and I'm not loving that! But I'm loving this!

    http://www.break.com/video/ugc/oran-...il-2009-702765

    http://www.break.com/video/ugc/track...d-video-625380

  41. #41
    Really good price for Vesrahs! Kurveygirl has them at $270

  42. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by KANGA View Post
    Yeah theres a gap between the tank cover and the tank which shows some green. My master plan is to cover it with black electrical tape. Quality work all over lol.
    When I had that 'issue' with the tank sliders I just used a black marker... hahahaha

  43. #43
    Moderator chubb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KANGA View Post
    Whose that?
    Little Mick.

    He's the guy I chase with bright yellow/green flouro bike and leathers

  44. #44
    misguided youth Little Mick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KANGA View Post
    Whose that? Next time I'm going one colour per piece lol
    Small IMG_5655.jpg

    Life's too Short- YOLO!

  45. #45
    Quote Originally Posted by Little Mick View Post
    Ahhhahaha best part about this is my name is Mick lol

  46. #46
    Thank God for usernames 'cause Micks are waaaaaaaay over represented on the track these days... hahahahaha

  47. #47
    misguided youth Little Mick's Avatar
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    Never!!!
    Life's too Short- YOLO!

  48. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by Little Mick View Post
    Never!!!
    I'm afraid Ed's right Mick/s. You Micks could run your own series.
    Pre Modern Formula 1 Champion 2013 (GSXR750T)

    www.wet4uracing.com.au Race bike & mechanical prep, fairings and parts - www.bikeshop.com.au (Protech Motorcycles)Tyres, parts and dyno tuning www.stayupright.com.au motorcycle rider training from learners through to track skills - http://worthingtonmotorcycles.com.au BMW, Honda, MV Augusta, Moto Guzzi and Aprilia

  49. #49
    misguided youth Little Mick's Avatar
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    I dont think so....
    Mick James, Mick Jeffery, Mick Lockhart, Mick Gilligan, Mick Doolan, Mick C... nowhere near enough
    Life's too Short- YOLO!

  50. #50
    Can I be an honourary member??

    Nick
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